It’s been a little while between newsletters, mostly because we spent the best part of a month travelling around Italy. We picked up a car in Rome and drove across to see family from Abruzzo, Calabria then to Puglia, to celebrate my dear friend’s wedding.
I’ve wondered how to best squeeze in my favourite recommendations, but I thought I’d start with Rome!
I’ve left out the places you already know you should visit (but I am going to say the Pantheon is my favourite). These recommendations are pretty heavily skewed toward eating & drinking well (while travelling with an almost two-year-old).
Stay
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Rome is such an amazing city to explore on foot, so I’d keep that in mind when booking accommodation. We spent most of our time staying in Monti at Hotel Viminale. I loved Monti as it had a slower pace and fewer tourists but you are still within walking distance to all the main sites.
Eat
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Taverna Romana - I stumbled across this place late one afternoon while I was looking for olives for Etta. My favourite thing was the fresh pasta with butter, anchovies and breadcrumbs! A great biodynamic house red wine too.
La Matriciana - This was our first meal of the trip and it didn’t disappoint. The amatriciana is out of this world! The octopus salad, is also great!
Emma Pizzeria - A deli, wine shop and restaurant. Extensive menu & wine list. Pizzas made from organic dough and olive oil from Tuscany. You’ll also find a page of seasonal dishes with a focus on local, organic produce.
Ristorante Nino - You must go. Beautiful Tuscan-inspired food just tucked away near the Spanish Steps. Great service and incredible food. It feels warm, elegant and old school in the best possible ways.
Rocco Ristorante - A beautiful, classic Roman trattoria situated in Monti. A small but delicious menu.
Ristorante la Campana - Incredible. It’s all the reasons I love eating in restaurants. This restaurant is over 500 years old and you’ll still see locals passing through during lunch service. Honestly, everything we had was perfect. Fresh porcini mushrooms sauteed with olive oil, garlic and parsley, freshly made pasta, eggplant parmigiana, stewed artichokes, and tiramisu. The handwritten menu <3
Drink
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Caffe Portoghesi - Order a tè freddo with a scoop of lemon granita in the summer or an affogato in the cooler months. Always an almond biscotti for Etta.
Spritzeria Monti - This was just around the corner from our hotel and they do make a great Spritz. Cynar Spritz is my drink of choice.
La Barrique - A beautiful wine bar in Monti. A really incredible selection of Italian natural wines and staff that know their stuff. Stay for dinner because the food is equally as good!
SOLOVINO Enoteca Naturale - We found this place on our last night in Rome. Great selection of wines to drink in or take home. A vegetable-centric menu that is small but so delicious. Blink & you’ll miss it!
Snack
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Gioletti - Everyone’s favourite for a reason. A perfect place for a gelato and a torta del nonna after a visit to the Pantheon.
Ciampini - One of my favourite piazzas in Rome. The people-watching is excellent at any time of the day. Take an espresso at the bar in the mornings or settle in for aperitivo in the afternoon.
Il Capriccio di Carla - Great, great gelato. The pistachio!
Regoli Pasticceria - Go early on your way to the Colosseum. Order a maritozzo & espresso.
All'antico vinaio - Definitely not a hidden gem but definitely worth the hype. Mortadella with pistachio cream!
Neve di Latte - Loved this gelato shop. It looks a little less fancy than Gioletti but is delicious and always full of locals!
See
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Villa Borghese - My favourite garden in Rome. A perfect place to spend an entire morning or afternoon. The grounds are so beautiful with amazing views of the city. There are parks, fountains and places for kids to play and snack. Visit Galleria Borghese which is housed in the former Villa Borghese Pinciana for an incredible collection of paintings and sculptures. You absolutely must book ahead.
Villa Medici - An epitome of Renaissance elegance right in the centre of Rome. Stroll through to experience modern sculptures nestled within the Villa’s historic and opulent architecture.
Campo dei Fiori Markets - One of the oldest markets in Rome. Open every day except Sundays. It’s well known and can get touristy but for good reason. The produce is great and the flowers are beautiful. We wandered around while Etta slept in the pram. If you were staying in an Airbnb, I’d recommend coming to shop here!
Shop
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Schostal Originals - This is maybe my favourite retail store in Rome, it’s so beautiful and full of history. Founded in Rome back in 1870, the brand is best known for its high-quality pyjamas, shirting, socks and hosiery. They sell the sweetest cotton pyjamas for children too. All made in Italy, of course.
Santa Maria Novella - Santa Maria Novella fragrances trace their origins back to Florence in 1221, when friars started experimenting with herbs and flowers from their monastic garden. They crafted soothing balms and remedies, intending to benefit the local community. Today, you’ll find perfumes, mists, lotions and remedies gracing the shelves. My go-to scent is Tuscan Tobacco and their Aqua Rosa mist.
Gammarelli - For over two centuries, Gammarelli has been the trusted tailor for the Popes, crafting not only their clothing but also their renowned socks. These socks, crafted in Italy, make for a perfect souvenir. They also sell them in the smallest, sweetest baby sizes.